Bia Hoi is something of a wonder… a wonder as to how beer could possibly be so cheap. Freshly brewed nearly daily with no preservatives, it is a treat that varies greatly and must be consumed immediately. At 13 cents a glass, it was an affordable way to while away the evenings, trying my best to forget that I somehow planned my arrival in Hanoi at exactly the same time as my favorite American hero, Comrade Bush, descended upon this charming and unsuspecting city for the APEC (Asian Pacific Economic Cooperation) Forum. My good friend Luke said it best, “So, I guess that means his dad couldn’t get him out of going to Vietnam this time–he missed his flight last time (1971?) but he is there now”.

My Hanoi visit was broken up by my trip to Halong Bay, but overall I spent 4 days and 4 nights wandering the streets, eating Pho (delicious Vietnamese noodle soup), and checking out the scenery. The city really does have an incredible energy, and I met several travelers who got “stuck” there for much longer than they anticipated. One traveler I met, Vincent, took a job at the backpacker’s hostel I stayed at and planned to stay for 3 months. I can’t say I wasn’t the least bit jealous.

One highlight of my stay in Hanoi was wandering around the magical Hoan Kiem lake, which I did at least once every day. Surrounded by benches, weeping willows, a winding path, and intermittent grassy knolls, it draws thousands of people, tourists and natives alike, there each day. One day, I took a walking tour through the old quarter, meandering through the different streets that specialize in a particular trade: coffee, metal, plastic bits, flowers, toys, shoes and more.

I also checked out the famed Water Puppets, which was a very rewarding tourist experience. The puppeteers are trained for up to 3 years, and spend weeks carving their puppets. The show is performed in a big theatre with a large body of water at center stage. Puppets perform short skits in the water, swimming, paddling boats, catching fish, breathing fire (yes! fire!) without the aid of strings. All the work is done below the water with poles and pully systems. I tried to snap a picture with my crappy digital camera, but only got a blur of watery, fuzzy images… again, video prevails in capturing the moment.

Aside from the Pho and Bia Hoi, I enjoyed several other delicacies in Hanoi. I was able to find that elusive avacado shake, which definitely lived up to its esteemed reputation among travelers. Delicious! I also feasted on a small quayle with Allison and Adam who I met up with once again in Vietnam. That, too, was surprisingly tasty, if not a bit disturbing (nibbling around the head and talons being particularly unsettling).

But one of the things that I was most taken by was, I hate to say it, the hamburgers at the Hanoi Backpacker’s Hostel. This place was really great, if not a bit expensive by hostel standards ($5.95/night)… clean rooms and bathrooms, lockers, a roof bar, TV with DVD’s galore, and an extremely helpful staff. It was a great place to meet folks, set up tours, and relax. Three nights a week they have a barbeque on the roof, and the hamburgers are absolutely out of this world (YES, I ate beef, ok?). I found the secret ingredient, and can’t wait to give it a go when I get home.

My last night there, I ate a hamburger with Dan, Molly, and Andy, and gave Molly left over Kip from Laos so that she could buy me a beer with Dong. They are headed to Laos, and then to Chiang Mai, where hopefully our paths will cross once more. I said goodbye to all the new friends I had made, and set off for the airport where I planned to fly to Bangkok, spend the night in the airport, and fly to Chiang Mai the next day just in time for Thanksgiving dinner.

I have to say, despite looking forward to seeing Abby and feasting on turkey, I was quite sad to leave Vietnam. I really enjoyed my entire journey through the country, and had grown attached to the culture and people. I’ve already told Beth and my mother that I hope to someday drag them back with me for a visit. Beth will be a willing victim, though I’m guessing my mother will require a bit more coaxing. Kerry, you think you could help with this one?